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It was not boring. 😁 It was interesting as usual and very nice of you to one again to share it with us. Woodworking is really about finding ways to adapt. Still amazed about how much there is to find!

Fascinating! Watching your videos is always an interesting education in woodworking possibilities. Seems to me our ancestors were endlessly clever and very very skilled. as are you

As always good tips and tools to keep an eye out for. Thanks Graham!

8:56 cool !

7:02 😮I didn’t know why ! Thank you

Graham, terrific video. Straight (lousy pun) forward info. Thank you.

as usual, nice tips!

As you said, boring is anything but boring. Thank you for sharing.

Thank you for sharing this information. A lovely, lovely gentleman. Suits you, sir.

Fascinating. Thank you for the share.

Thank you Sir 🎉

Thank you Graham! That small flexible drill is cool.

Thanks!!

When I bore under 1/16", I have a smaller egg beater type I use & don't break the bit like with the electric. Fiskars has one that works.

💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

Would you use a flat mirror to help you sight vertical from the other direction at the same time?

Always a surprise the kind of tools you have! I actually have your book, but haven't seen that one yet.

Very helpful information on angle boring. Thank you Graham!

Wow you’ve got the coolest tools. Thanks for the education Graham it’s much appreciated.

Thank you Sir.🎉

Fascinating, thanks

Using the bench as a means of stabilizing your tool to get a high quality bore is a new one for me, but it seems like the best way to bore a hole in the vise because you have the most rigidity closed to the jaws vs further up the board. Going to have to pick up a corner brace and adjustable eggbeater drill for that reason alone

Really interesting tools indeed, Graham! 😃 Thanks a bunch for another lesson!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

I'm always fascinated about the tools I did not know existed. Thanks for sharing

Hey, Graham. I have a question: I recently picked up a matched set of wooden tongue and groove planes. They seem to be intended for 1 1/8" material. Would it be sacrilegious if I added a removable block on them so I can use them on 3/4" material too?

First time seeing a "corner brace" and the angle adjustable "egg whisk drill" 😮

Horizontal boring is aided by adding a washer to the shank of the bit. Depending on which way the washer rides, counter it in the opposite direction.

Thanks for all your great videos, Graham.

In tears watching the hand sash joinery. I have 4 big sash windows build, refuse to buy spindle moulders, planar thicknesses etc. I Will copy a red meranti sash window that I got on Facebook marketplace for free, I remove brickwork and sill to fit the window in my Victorian property and it looks bloody amazing now. Cords and lead weights, very heavy and installed by myself. It’s Worth £4K, so I can get permission from wife to buy the tools in your videos saving a lot of money not having to buy modern crap sash windows made without love. I have a Disston 134 yr old sash saw, very heavy and sturdy newly sharpened…..blows modern saws out of the water. I investigate joinery of old sash windows too. Thank you.

Another cracker Graham! What angle do you sharpen mortise chisels at, and do you use a secondary bevel?

Great video. If you have an iron whose profile doesn’t match the plane what is the best way to reshape it?

What came first the chicken or the egg?

Greetings, Mr. Blackburn. A couple of questions, please: The door on your cabinet, how do you handle the bead where the stiles and rails meet? 2nd question: You start your cut at the back of the board. Wouldn’t it be better to start at the front and work your way back? 3rd question: What do you do about wood that is wider than the width of the cutting iron(s) such as the 48 or 49 planes. Thank you for your time in considering these questions!

Everyone says tapered blades are better, easier, nicer. While I don’t doubt it for a minute, I have yet to understand any of the explanations as to why. Lol! And I’ve heard a number of them. I have a fine quality pre-Disston, open handled, saw nuts Jackson tapered dovetail saw in the queue for major restoration. When done, I get to try out a true tapered blade. I think I’ll love it. Still, one thing I’m curious about. A number of the joinery saws I have restored were just set crooked in the spine so they resembled tapered blades. I’m not sure there would be much difference in the geometry when compared to a true tapered blade, so I wonder why a blade would need to be when all you need to do it tap the toe end a little more? Maybe there’s more to it than that?

Hello, been watching your videos for a while. Got some helpful tips. I have been give 3 moulding planes but they all have several woodworm holes. Would it be safe to use them without getting wordworm in my other planes?

is there a chance you can damage your shapton with the oil? you got very close to oiling the stone itself. rather use an oilstone in that case :)

Thanks for sharing. Great lesson.

Thank you Sir 🎉

I’m wondering why the sash chisels are so long. They seem excessively long for the job they do. But I have no experience and I’m eager to learn. Excellent lesson! You cleared up much of my confusion about chisel types.

'Registered' mortice chisel- often called a framing chisel, as it was used in timber frame construction; this required robust design for cutting large and deep mortices. Socket or tang- the advantage of the socket is the slow transition to the handle, leaving no ledge that can mar the wood at low angles. However it costs more- and has become a badge of 'upmarket' chisels. Many bevel chisels now have them, so use is no longer the distinction. Great detail on mortice cutting! Thanks.

Excellent tutorial sir.

I would have expected you to use a router plane to get the bottoms even and at the right depth.

I got your book when it first came out. (You were in Woodstock at the time, and I met you in person a few years later). Happy to see you on RUclips now. Years ago, I bought some English made Footprint "Registered Mortising Chisels" and they are quite different from yours, and look more like what you describe as a firmer chisel. Unfortunately, they don't appear to be made any more. They were recommended in Fine Woodworking at the time, probably in the 1980s. I'd send a photo but there does not appear to be a way to add one in a comment.

I was surprised to learn you are based in Santa Cruz. I'm in San Juan Bautista.

Great information as usual. I'm so glad Rex Kreuger pointed his viewers over to you. I do have to comment on that absolutely beautiful brass and wood marking gauge sitting on your bench. I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to appreciate you taking a moment in a future video to give us all a closer look.

Would you not recommend the David Charlesworth ruler trick on a mortise chisel? Keep the back flat from tang to tip?

thank you,

Wonderful video. I didn’t know that there was a difference in mortise chisels. Good to know.

The registered mortise chisels (which I've always called "pig stickers") have more of a curved "bevel" than bench chisels. Is that intentional? How do you sharpen the chisel so as to maintain the shape? Good video. Thank you for sharing.

Thanks Graham